From the Strategist: The Best Bitters, According to Bartenders

As Leyenda owner Ivy Mix, a co-founder of Speed Rack and the author of Spirits of Latin America, explains, “Pisco sours need a little drop of bitters on top to make them just so.” She says that bartenders generally use Angostura to top the drink, but that in Peru you would traditionally use Amargo Chuncho, aromatic bitters that she describes as “dark and inky with lots of bitterness from quinoa leaves.”

Four of our experts (we’re counting the two Cocktail Bandits as one) recommend Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters, including Mix, who calls it “indispensable and very versatile.” Mountain describes the flavor as a “combination of cacao, cinnamon, and spice that can bring out a richness in dark-liquor cocktails.” The Cocktail Bandits agree and add that “the nutty and rich dark flavors of this chocolate bitter pair beautifully with spirit-forward cocktails.” While they’re a bit pricey, Mountain notes that “the quality of Bittermens’ ingredients is truly unmatched and can enhance any flavor profile, even for the most discerning cocktail aficionados.” Milos Kostadinovic, the beverage director for the Boucherie restaurants, explains that these bitters’ high quality is due in part to the brand’s use organic products,” adding that he likes to add them to dark rum or tequila drinks.

Hannigan says BOB’s Chocolate Bitters have notes of mocha and espresso and “will add fantastic layers of flavor to whatever you are making.” Only a few dashes will give a drink “a lovely bitter, dark-chocolate depth,” he says.

According to Kostadinovic, these bitters blend citrus notes with chamomile to create a “fresh and floral” flavor that pairs well with chartreuse and rhum agricole.

“With hints of allspice and berries, these bitters are perfect for winter,” says Canny. He likes to use them to zhuzh up rum cocktails or to “add more flavor to leftover holiday bubbles like Prosecco or sparkling wine.”

For a taste of summer (now or when the weather warms up), Hannigan recommends these strawberry bitters. He’s a fan of adding them to martini-style cocktails to give them a fresher taste.

Kostadinovic keeps Fee Brothers’ Plum Bitters behind the bar at Boucherie. He says they pair very well with bourbon and tequila (and lavender, if you’re into it), adding that these bitters are what he’ll reach for to give the standard old-fashioned a bit of a fruity kick.

Bittermens Hellfire Habanero is technically a cross between a shrub and a bitter, but two of our experts say it can’t be beat for those who prefer a spicy cocktail now and then. “If you’re looking to bring the heat, the Hellfire bitters will not disappoint,” promises Mountain. But “they are fiery,” warns Marrero, who notes you can usually substitute these bitters for recipes that call for spicy liqueurs.

Marrero is also a fan of 18.21’s Japanese Chili and Lime Bitters, which she says have notes of spice and citrus. Again, she warns to “be careful: They are so delicious and nuanced, but the spice really comes in at the end.”

For spiciness with a hint of smoke, Marrero loves Hella Cocktail Co.’s Smoked Chili Bitters, which have a smoky ancho flavor that she promises is strong enough to taste, but subtle enough not to “overpower everything else.”

According to Caldwell and Reaves, “If you love a good Bloody Mary, then you will love celery bitters.” The duo says these are a hallmark of “herbaceous cocktails and add an element of freshness to a drink.”

Dram Apothecary is a Colorado-based company that specializes in herbal bitters and is a favorite of Sam Thonis, a co-owner of alcohol-free bar Getaway in Greenpoint. (To support its business due to the ongoing pandemic, Getaway is selling gift cards you can redeem when it reopens; you can also donate to its staff fund here). This set comes with mini bottles of its entire bitters line, including palo santo, citrus, lavender lemon, wild mountain sage, their “black” blend (which contains notes of black cardamom and black tea), and their “hair of the dog” blend (which includes notes of ginger, fennel, cinnamon). Mix is another fan of the brand’s bitters, especially its palo santo blend, which she uses to infuse everything from martinis to old-fashioneds with an incense-like flavor.

Momose told us about these shiso bitters, which she says says “carry a deep and profound bitterness and the essence of an ingredient that is not so easy to tame into liquid form.” Shiso is a Japanese herb that “bears the freshness of mint and tangerine zest, with the warmth of baking spices like Ceylon cinnamon, star anise, and pimento,” she explains. While the bitters are a bit pricey, Momose explains that it can sometimes be difficult to find shiso in the States. As for how to use these, she recommends adding them to Tom Collins variations, Manhattans, or old-fashioneds.